Funny, I had the opposite reaction.
The view from our seats was awful; the stadium seating was designed for depth with baseball in mind, so this isn't such a shock, but I often found myself watching the play on the video board rather than the field. The field itself looks terrible with the dirt; reminds me of watching Raiders games.
Attendance was dismal, and while some may dismiss this as just the opponent, bear in mind that we drew 58,000 for UC Davis last year. We had 34,000 today. For whatever reason, removing games from the Berkeley locale has a dramatic negative impact on attendance.
By my measurement, gameday atmosphere suffered too. Stadium-wide chants, like "GO....BEARS....GO....BEARS" were disjointed and often inaudible. Noise level was virtually non-existent. Yes, yes, I know; it was the Blue Hose and 63-12, but even against Davis/EWU/Sac State, there's more of a buzz at least early. The student section gave a typically energetic performance, but shunting them away in the endzone rather than on the 50 reduces their influence. Ditto for the band.
Ultimately, you're right: it felt like a bowl game, and that was the problem. As far as atmosphere goes, I like going to home games, not bowl games. To be honest, it seemed that much of what you were enamored with at AT&T were amenities and conveniences: the ease of getting out of there, not being subjected to the port-a-potties, the good food and the cock-tails--a set of predilections I would almost call effete, striking tones of the classic "wine and cheese" fans of the Bay Area. Frankly, as far as a college football atmosphere goes, I'd pick intense over leisurely.